Blog!ARU: Replies
The Original Entry:
Tip: For anyone with a Honeywell Smartfit central heating system where the control panel displays a spanner symbol and the error code ‘F2’ (meaning ‘Central Heating Valve Open Circuit’) one possible fix not listed in the install guide, at least if your system is a ‘Y-plan’, is as follows:
- Turn off the power to the central heating system so that the boiler and control panel are completely powered off.
- Locate the central heating valve (picture below) and force the lever into the centre position, this may take some effort (YMMV). In the photo below the valve is the black box, the lever in question is white and the centre position is vertical.
- Turn the power back on again.
- Initially the control panel may still indicate the fault but give it a few moments and it may automatically clear itself and return to normal functionality.
This advice comes care of a CORGI-approved engineer and worked for me. Putting this information online may save someone else the inconvenience of experiencing an unintended cold shower. Use this info at your own risk.
Update
In response to a number of visitors seeking a solution for this error code, here's what the central heating valve looks like:
The Y-Plan and S-Plan installation guides complete with lists of error codes and suggested solutions are available on the Honeywell site:
- Smartfit ‘Y’ Pack Installation Guide [PDF] (Page 7)
- Smartfit ‘S’ Pack Installation Guide [PDF] (Page 7)
[ modified 20th October 2008 21:17 BST ]
Replies
Hi Andrew, Great solution, worked great for me, thanks. A question though - is this likely to be symptomatic of a more serious problem with the 3-way valve|control unit or is just a one-off? cheers.
Hi Adam. I'd imagine it's a design fault of the unit, but a not too problematic one, although that's just a guess.
Can't believe it, it worked for me too. Thanks to you and the www I have saved a fortune in calling someone out and thanfully keeping my family warm on this very chilly evening. Thank you soooooooooo much Andrew. Dave.
Thank you so much Andrew
Just worked for me , my girlfriend was here without heating all day
Top man
Noel
Just worked for me , my girlfriend was here without heating all day
Top man
Noel
DO YOU HAVE TO PUT THE LEAVER BACK TO WHERE IT WAS ?
Re: Noel
Do you have to put the leaver back to where it was?
No, the central heating system will automatically control the position of the lever from there on in. Once you've moved the lever to the centre position and turned the power back on just leave it alone.
We've had this problem intermittently for the last month. We've got home emergency cover so called out engineers - they've been 4 times and replaced the room unit, base unit and actuator but it still keeps happening. I tried the www in desperation and found this - great tip, it's prevented yet another cold miserable weekend. Did anyone ever get to the bottom of why it happened in the first place? I'm still assuming the problem will come back again.
Did anyone ever get to the bottom of why it happened in the first place?
Hi. I'm assuming it's a design fault of the valve or of the control system that operates it ? though this remains conjecture only.
You just saved me a night of cold, and most likely some big bucks. PS I moved the lever all the way, it went in just one click, I thought Id gone to far but it worked all the same. Thanks very much.
thanks Andrew, this worked for me too. We just had snow (March 19th) and come home to no heating — this solved the problem first time — cheers
I had a spanner with F4 shown. Phoned Honeywell Tech Advice who said I should turn house mains power off for one full minute and then see if fault disappeared when powered up again. It did! So don't know if the diverter valve is faulty or not — which is what fault code is meant to indicate. Bit confusing if Honeywell don't mention that remedy in their literature. Has anyone else had this problem?
Just wanted to say a big thankyou for David's advice above. Also had the spanner and F4 and did what was suggested and so far so good! By doing this the valve moved across to a different position and it seems to have fixed it!
Saved me easily £100-200 in call outs, cheers!
Saved me easily £100-200 in call outs, cheers!
Also had the F4 and spanner, tried the suggested solution, turn the electric off. All appears to be fine for now. Working for fours days before posted this, so fingers crossed.
Many thanks for the info.
Many thanks for the info.
The valve itself is typically the cause, it gets stuck. The system measures via the actuator, the valve closing and opening. If the valve sticks even a little, it throws up the error. Often tapping the valve body helps and of course resetting the sysem by recyling the power, which enables the system to re-calibrate the valve opening and closing. Also It helps to carefully remove the actuator, by prying from the valve (read the manual first, which can be downloaded from Honeywell) then carefully remove the circlip, whilst holding the brass shaft with some plier and work it from left to right to free it. It tends to go for longer before the problem re-occurs this way. The valve can be replaced failry cheaply, but the system would need to drained in order for the valve to be swapped.
Just saved me from a second freezing cold night as I came from nightshift, I've got to say you're a topman!
If you're ever in Dublin I owe you a pint of Guinness! Thanks a million.
If you're ever in Dublin I owe you a pint of Guinness! Thanks a million.
I couldn't get any help on the Honeywell website but found your website and solved the problem in 5 minutes flat. Life is never this easy. Many, many thanks.
Phil
Phil
Just had the F2 code come up, so tried useless Honeywell web for no info then found your solution, absolutely fantastic your a star! Many thanks
Wow oh wow, this worked a treat. We came from holiday to a spanner and F2. I happened on your solution, and it worked. fingers crossed it is permanent!!!
Thank you so much!!!!
Thank you so much!!!!
Ref my earlier remedy with spanner and F4. The F4 fault kept ocurring more frequently, so tried fitting a new valve actuator. Whilst the old actuator was removed, I also worked the divertor valve stem with a screwdriver in the slot to ensure it was free turning.
But the F4 problem kept coming back, and eventually was so bad, I called Howeywell technical who suggested the control box be replaced. So bought a complete Smartfit kit, with valve and actuator, cylinder stat etc — cheaper than buying control box alone! BUT the control box is rivetted to the Megaflo cylinder casing. So just prised out the printed circuit board from the plastic box and fitted the new one and re-connected the wiring. Four weeks now past and all is well — so it looks like the control box is the basic problem.
Hope this helps someone.
DR-J
But the F4 problem kept coming back, and eventually was so bad, I called Howeywell technical who suggested the control box be replaced. So bought a complete Smartfit kit, with valve and actuator, cylinder stat etc — cheaper than buying control box alone! BUT the control box is rivetted to the Megaflo cylinder casing. So just prised out the printed circuit board from the plastic box and fitted the new one and re-connected the wiring. Four weeks now past and all is well — so it looks like the control box is the basic problem.
Hope this helps someone.
DR-J
Had my system about 6 years now. Had a problem just the last couple of months with faults F10 (valve pluged in cylinder socket) which it isn't and F8 (cylinder sensor fault). As I clear one fault the other then appears. It takes a few attempts at power down and check cables till it finally sorts itself.
Strange and slightly annoying !! Was thinking of just buying a new kit and swapping out the bits one by one?
Strange and slightly annoying !! Was thinking of just buying a new kit and swapping out the bits one by one?
No heating, no hot water, check the Honeywell screen and I have the spanner and F2, just as we are going out for the day. Come back and the screen hadn't changed, not sure why I thought it would by itself. Anyways, 30 frantic minutes searching the net dreading the bill when finally google spat me a link to this blog. Turned off boiler, turned off Honeywell. Went up to the airing cupboard I didn't know we had and matched the switch thing with the picture you posted. The little white lever took a LOT of persuasion, but eventually swung. Fired everything up at once and much whirring ensued. 30 secs later, boiler lights up, wife smiles, my wallet sighs with relief.
Cheers ‘Andrew’
You're a life saver.
Cheers ‘Andrew’
You're a life saver.
i did all the above and f2 symbol went off but now my heating is coming on when i have it on hot water only..has anyone experienced this or did i do something wrong?
Re: Deborah
If I had to have a guess I'd say that your central heating valve isn't very health, or it may still be stuck. Might be time to get the gasman out to be sure.
If I had to have a guess I'd say that your central heating valve isn't very health, or it may still be stuck. Might be time to get the gasman out to be sure.
![[ email link ]](http://andrewu.co.uk/media/jasper/blog!aru//furniture/envelope.gif "Email Mark"){kind=small}
I had the same problems with my unit,no heating/hot water and the problem codes varying from F2/F4.So I thought i`d give the advice a go and within a minute my boilier had fired and all is now fine.Just to add to the given advice when you take off the unit get some grips and check the 3 way valve which the unit is fixed to isn`t jammed as mine seemed to be slightly.The steps I took are as follows:Turn off power,remove actuator unit,pulg it back in whilst removed,the motor will kick in,unplug again ready for re-fitting,now make sure the 3 way valve is central and make sure the locating bar on the actuator unit marries up with slot on the 3 way valve outer stem,fasten back down and then turn system back on.Hope this works for you as it did me
Regards
Mark.
Regards
Mark.
I'm not to sure if which Smartfit my Grandparents have but its showing the F2 on it and the box in your picture was all the way to the right. I've tried to move it to a central position but it won't go straight up no matter how much I push it. It will only go to about 3/4 the way from the right to the centre and nothing happens.
Am I following your advice right?
Am I following your advice right?
Re: Charlie
Yes, though Mark in comment #24 seemed to have a problem with a jammed valve and a solution, but it's probably best to give your local Gas-Safe engineer a call and see what they say.
Yes, though Mark in comment #24 seemed to have a problem with a jammed valve and a solution, but it's probably best to give your local Gas-Safe engineer a call and see what they say.
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